lördag 2 december 2023

How to Prep one's Boots for Winter

This is mostly quite obvious stuff - like ramming in an open door - but the true purpose of the post is actually to write down the recipe on DIY leather conditioner for safe-keeping.

The most important step to prepare one's boots for winter usage is, of course, to wear a second pair of thick enough wool socks over your ordinay socks. That goes a long way. The second most important step is to have a good insole. I prefer wool ones. This is basically enough for winter and - by just adjusting how heavy socks one is wearing - can be used all year around.

But one trick I just recently stumbled upon that makes a lot of difference for colder days is to also add a plastic mesh insole under your wool one, to trap some air and thus give better isolation and warmth and also help keep the wool insole dry. This actually plays out pretty well if you, like me, have a standing desk in the office and is too lazy to change footwear when at work.

It is, of course, a bit sad that the mesh insoles are made of plastic but I imagine that wooden ones might break too easily and that textile fiber based ones might compress too easily - but perhaps metal ones should be a possibility? Anyways, it also seems to be a military thing - mine are the kind the Swedish army uses but I've also seen Czech ones for sale on the web.

In the picture above, I've turned the plastic mesh insole from the stripped boot upside down, so you can see the ridges and gorges that is doing the air-trapping. The side that should be facing up against your wool insole is just flat with holes.

In the not yet stripped boot, you can also see how you always should take the insoles out of the foodbed and place them in the boot-shaft when you're not using the boot, to make them dry quicker and be ready for next time you put your boots on again.

Finally, regardless of winter or summer, you should clean your boots when dirty and regulary treat them with leather conditioner to prevent the leather from drying out and cracking and overall prolong the lifespan of your boots (and remember that a good cobbler probably can resole your boots as the outer sole is likely to wear out before the upper boot).

I spent some time of searching for a good recipe of DIY leather conditioner and let me tell you, there are surprisingly many out on the Internet! But I kept searching until I found one that I liked the look of (although I should probably spent years on testing them all out on actual leather instead, but in the end, I'm only human). The following recipe has A) just a few ingredients and B) just organic ingredients - no syntetic or mineralbased oils. Here's the web-page where I found it: https://propolis-ratgeber.info/lederpflege-selber-machen/

DIY Leather Conditioner

  • 5 parts coconut oil (or olive oil)
  • 4 parts Lanolin (i.e., woolfat)
  • 1 part beeswax (2 parts for a firmer creme)
Melt in a double boiler (or over a water bath), whisk to mix, let cool. Apply thinly with soft cloth. Allow to soak. Buff out any extra.

torsdag 23 november 2023

Disaster! The Perils of a Cheap ProMicro and How to Save One's Homebuilt Daily Driver

After having used my second Isogherkin prototype as my daily driver at work for over two years, it suddenly happened. As I was packing it into the case one morning after a day of working home to bring it to the office, the USB port on the ProMicro MCU snapped right off, despite having been drenched in hot-gun glue (not enough glue, it seems...)
Despair! What a sinking feeling to the stomache...
Well, not much to do - needed to whip out the soldering iron and desolder it, pin by pin.
Damned little sucker...
OK, but that the USB port on the ProMicros are pretty flimsy is a well-know fact. Luckily, there are other MCUs around that has addesses the issue by instead having a through hole mounted USB port. For example, the Elite-C is one of those and also have the good taste of having an USB C port, more pins, and multiple other advantages over the ProMicro while still being a drop-in replacement for it. It is somewhat more expensive though. Furthermore, I already had an Elite-C at home for another project that I haven't gotten around to do yet, so I quickly settled on soldering it to the Prototype instead.

The three row pins done:

All done:
In theory, I could have soldered each row and column to the same pin as on the ProMicro - then I would have been able to just flash the old image onto the Elite-C and everything should just have worked. Instead, I tried to make a more tidy use of the Elite-C pins - D1 to D3 for the rows and B0 to B7 and F4 to F7 for the rows, but then confused F5 to F7 with the pins on the opposite side of the MCU. Not a big problem, as it is just a matter of updating the pins in the QMK code. Or so I thought. It turns out that QMK have gone through a lot of changes during the last couple of years and I quickly found out that it wasn't trivial to re-create the Isogherkin firmware in the new style in an evening. Alas, my old checkout refused to build with Python errors, probably due to the OS having moved on... It looked like I would have to go the long way and be without my daily driver for weeks, but then I found a checkout on my old Chromebook(!) that still was in a preserved enough eco-system that it still allowed me to compile - so I updated the pins to match the actual ones used on the Elite-C, compiled, exported the image to another laptop that actually could flash, too (Chromebooks generally cannot flash MCUs), flashed the Elite-C and - hey Presto! - I have my daily driver working again! But next step will be to do the homework and modernize my Isogherkin QMK firmware code to match the current QMK standards (then it can start to grow outdated again).